I didn’t get as much done on the fretboards as i would have liked last week, but i did get them prepped for slotting. We just couldn’t find the proper wrenches to change the blade on the table saw.

So instead, i spent time carving and shaping the neck heel on Proto 2.

Bolt-on, set-neck or neck-thru? This question has been kicked around and debated for about as long as the electric guitar has existed. Each has benefits and drawbacks. Since i don’t favour one method of assembly over another, i will likely be using whichever method is most appropriate or suits my desire or needs at any particular time.

In these early stages of building, i’ve opted to go for a bolt-on design, for a few reasons. First, the bolt-on design gives maximum versatility. I’m building guitars with very different body and neck woods. They’ll all have the same scale length, bolt pattern and neck pocket, so they’ll be easily interchangeable, so i can experiment with how different neck woods and body woods interact. Second, if anything goes catastrophically wrong at any point in the build, i’ve only lost a body or a neck. With a set-neck or neck-thru, i’d have to trash the whole instrument. I’d rather not do that.

But i won’t be using just any old bolt-on design. The classic Fender “bolt-on” is actually mis-named. The necks are actually screwed on. Bolts are usually threaded to receive a nut. Most “bolt-on” necks just use big wood screws and a metal plate (or recessed metal grommets). Not a bad design, but its strength is limited by thin threads biting into wood. Repeated neck removals weaken the joint every single time.

Here’s how we’re building our bolt-on necks: