Proto 2 neck heel carving

Decibel Guitars — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 00:36:00 +0000

I didn’t get as much done on the fretboards as i would have liked last week, but i did get them prepped for slotting. We just couldn’t find the proper wrenches to change the blade on the table saw.

So instead, i spent time carving and shaping the neck heel on Proto 2.

The heel has been shaved down and contoured. The bolts sit on 1/2″ of wood on the heel, so the contours are just a bit thicker than that.

The heel of the neck is carved asymmetrically with one purpose in mind: Comfort and playability.

Some details in the bevels and contours will be refined as the body is sanded and prepped for paint.

Smooth.

The contours of the heel will be blended into the neck carve.

… and this is how it fits in the hand.

A couple more pics can be found on the Proto 2 build page.

Anatomy of a neck joint

Decibel Guitars — Sat, 23 Jan 2010 06:13:58 +0000

Bolt-on, set-neck or neck-thru? This question has been kicked around and debated for about as long as the electric guitar has existed. Each has benefits and drawbacks. Since i don’t favour one method of assembly over another, i will likely be using whichever method is most appropriate or suits my desire or needs at any particular time.

In these early stages of building, i’ve opted to go for a bolt-on design, for a few reasons. First, the bolt-on design gives maximum versatility. I’m building guitars with very different body and neck woods. They’ll all have the same scale length, bolt pattern and neck pocket, so they’ll be easily interchangeable, so i can experiment with how different neck woods and body woods interact. Second, if anything goes catastrophically wrong at any point in the build, i’ve only lost a body or a neck. With a set-neck or neck-thru, i’d have to trash the whole instrument. I’d rather not do that.

But i won’t be using just any old bolt-on design. The classic Fender “bolt-on” is actually mis-named. The necks are actually screwed on. Bolts are usually threaded to receive a nut. Most “bolt-on” necks just use big wood screws and a metal plate (or recessed metal grommets). Not a bad design, but its strength is limited by thin threads biting into wood. Repeated neck removals weaken the joint every single time.

Here’s how we’re building our bolt-on necks:

This mock-up shows the anatomy of a Decibel Guitars bolt-on neck joint. Threaded T-nuts are inserted underneath the fretboard. They are threaded to receive a connector bolt, and have a 3/4″ flange and steel prongs that secure it in the wood.

The body side of the joint uses a stainless steel washer and large-head connector bolt with a hex socket.

This makes for a much more stable neck joint than the wood screws used in traditional “bolt-on” neck joints. Some manufacturers have designed their neck joints so only two of these bolts are needed. Since we are aiming for a thin neck and neck heel, we’ll be using four to start, just for maximum stability. We may revise this later.

Here, you can see the stainless steel prongs on the T-nuts, which prevent the nut from spinning as the bolt is torqued. The large flange delivers tremendous downward pressure, maximizing contact between the mating wood surfaces of the neck joint.

A mocked-up cross-section. The thickness of the bolt and T-nuts recesses will be carefully measured so there is no chance of the bolt pushing up into the fretboard.

Decibel Guitars » bolt-on

Proto 2 neck heel carving

Anatomy of a neck joint