The Magnetic/Piezo blend pedal
- May 25th, 2010
- Posted in Tech
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Since first reading about the Parker Fly in the early 1990s, i was captivated by the idea of having access to both electric and acoustic sounds on one guitar, and being able to flip between them (or blend them) at will. In many ways, this was “the sound” i had been hearing in my head for years, and finally there was a guitar that could do it.
Years later, i finally acquired a stunning Parker Fly Classic, and it did not disappoint. Well, except for the fact i found that i wanted to be able to move between the magnetic and piezo sounds while playing, and with two hands already occupied with picking and fretting, that seemed like an ideal task for one of my feet.
Read on…
I was surprised to learn that nobody had made a true “blend” pedal that worked the same way the magnetic/piezo balance pot worked on the Fly. At one end of the knob’s travel, it was full magnetic. At the other end, it was full piezo. In the middle, it was 100% of both, with any blend available between the two extremes.
Stereo volume pedals tracked two inputs and two outputs in parallel. Pan pedals usually swept one input between two outputs. And the occasional “blend” pedal i found either allowed the player to add the piezo sound to a fixed magnetic sound (like the Fishman PowerBlend pedal) or didn’t allow 100% of both signals in the middle position.
So i took it upon myself to design and build the pedal i envisioned.
My design criteria were that the pedal had to work exactly as i wanted and be a 100% passive design, so i wouldn’t have to mess around with preamps, buffers, batteries, impedance matching and so on. I wanted it to be universally workable for anyone with a magnetic/piezo equipped guitar like a Parker, a Music Man, or any guitar equipped with an aftermarket bridge and preamp from Fishman, L.R. Baggs or GraphTech.
I had to make a few assumptions, the first of which was that the guitar’s magnetic signal would be buffered by the piezo’s preamp. I know that GraphTech’s AcoustiPhonic preamp does. The advantage of this is that a 25 kOhm pot can be used because both circuits are active. If the magnetic signal is not buffered, then a 250 k, 500 k or 1 Meg pot would have to be used.
I found empty wah pedal shells available at Small Bear Electronics, bought blend pots through StewMac, found various jacks locally, and set to work creating the first prototype.
In my R&D process, i discovered that the automatic stereo/mono switching used in some preamp circuits (such as the AcoustiPhonic and newer Parkers) presented a problem. From my testing, it appeared that a tiny amount of voltage is sent down the piezo (ring) signal wire, and when that voltage is detected on the ground circuit (which would happen when a mono TS plug is inserted in a stereo TRS jack… the ring would be shorted to ground), the preamp switches into mono mode, sending both magnetic and piezo signals down the “tip” of the connector. It’s my understanding that newer Parkers that lack the red mono/stereo button next to the output jack also work in this way.
Dual-mono TS output. A centre detent in the blend pot allows the player to feel the point where both signals are at 100% volume. Pushing forward rolls off the piezo signal, pulling back rolls off the magnetic signal to zero.
Wiring the pot backwards succesfully isolated the voltage from the guitar’s onboard preamp, but resulted in a faint “zipper-like” sound as the pot was moved through its range.
I worked around it by putting an effects insert in the piezo circuit, where i placed a Tech21 Acoustic DI. This active preamp effectively isolated the voltage from heading back up the ground wire to trip the preamp into mono mode. But it didn’t meet my “100% passive” rule, so i knew i wasn’t done.
I left it alone for a while, because in my pedalboard at the time, it worked. But as my rig evolved and changed over time, i knew i’d have to revisit it. Further research into balanced and unbalanced circuits gave me an idea to try a “pseudo ground lift” whereby a resistor and a capacitor in line with the ground, which filters any voltage from travelling back up the ground wire. Eureka!
And here i present to you the schematic diagram for the pedal:
Click here to download it in PDF form.
I don’t believe in keeping what seems like a common-sense solution a “secret”, or trying to apply for a patent for what is essentially a blend pot stuffed into a wah pedal casing. (Chances are, a patent would not be granted for such an obvious solution.) So i’ve published the schematic here for anyone who wants to DIY their own pedal together, or improve upon my design.
On customer request, i will be including one of these pedals with each Decibel guitar that’s equipped with a GraphTech AcoustiPhonic piezo system. In my opinion, it’s the simplest, most elegant way to handle the switching or blending between magnetic and piezo sounds in a hybrid guitar.
Currently, i’m using a Dunlop-style wah pedal shell from Small Bear, but i would love to be able to retrofit this into an Ernie Ball VP or VP Jr. pedal. Unfortunately, the Ernie Ball pedals use a long-shaft pot, and i have not been successful in sourcing a long-shaft blend pot that would make this retrofit possible. If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be great!


Hey man,
Loved the article. Will definitely try this if I ever get a piezo-equipped guitar, as I’m already a huge fan of homebuilt stompboxes.
Thanks for posting this!
You’re panning between pseudo-left and pseudo-right channels, no? (stereo in) But the problem is, mag+piezo channels are not as electrically symmetric as desired, so you compromised?
Yes, i compromised because i was unable to find blend pots that had different impedence on each side of the pot.
I could have built it as an active pedal with buffers that would take into account the impedance difference, but i was really intent on having this be a completely passive pedal, so i wouldn’t have to feed it batteries or have another power cable trailing around my feet.
Where do you get a pot that is 25 & 250? I can’t seem to find them.
To my knowledge, that kind of pot doesn’t exist. It would be AWESOME if it did, but you have to choose whether you want to use a 25k, 250k or 500k… i think those are the only blend pots i’ve seen. If your magnetic signal is buffered through your piezo preamp (if it has onboard blend circuitry) then a 25k pot should work nicely.
What about the Ernie Ball PO6165 or the PO6167?
http://www.ernieball.com/products/category-534-Volume-Pedals#
Would either of these work as they are, or would they make for an easy mod into what you’ve done?
Thanks for all your R&D – I need a foot controlled solution!
Hi, Ed
It’s my understanding that the Ernie Ball stereo volume/pan pedals don’t “pan” in the same way i’m describing. They’re either stereo volume, with the A input going to the A output and B input going to the B output, or you can pan a mono signal from the A input between the A and B outputs. There’s no option to have the A and B volumes going in opposite directions (unless you went in and re-wired half of the pot in reverse) and even then, both signals would be at 50% volume in the middle of the pedal’s travel instead of both being full-on.
Trust me, i’ve researched the heck out of this and couldn’t find anything out there already in existence that works the way i wanted it to.
Would a used Ernie Stereo be a good pedal to mod into a true 100% signal flow pan pedal? If so, what would I need to do to make it happen?
Here’s the schematic for the 6165:
http://www.ernieball.com/products/volume_pedal/pdf/po6165_vp_stereo-pan_500k_1999-10-12.pdf
I would LOVE to use the Ernie Ball pedals as a starting point, because i think they’re extremely well made and have super-smooth action.
Theoretically, it would be possible. However, the missing element is the long-shaft blend pot. Ernie Ball uses special long-shaft pots that allow the cord-and-spring assembly to be attached. Their stereo volume/blend pedals use long-shaft double-ganged pots, but they aren’t “blend” pots in the true sense. I have not seen a long-shaft blend pot readily available from any manufacturer. A custom pot could be manufactured, but they’d probably need an order of about 10,000 in order to even consider it.
If you’re handy, you could potentially weld an extender onto an existing pot shaft, but i’m not sure how well that would hold up, or if the welding process might potentially damage the pot’s innards.
This is how i ended up with a more standard “Dunlop” style pedal shell. It takes a standard pot, and while it’s not as smooth as an Ernie Ball, it gets the job done.
Hmmm . . . good info, thanks. This should be a fun challenge. I’m going to pick up an EB 6165 I found used & see what can be done. Where there’s a will, there’s a way.
My two voice guitar is a 97 Hamer DuoTone with two separate output jacks, and I like the fact that the 6165 already has two ins & two outs, plus as you say – they’re very well made pedals.
Hi, I’m modified my guitar with active pickups as well as a piezo bridge and the graph tech circuitry. My pickups needed a 25k pot, and I needed a 500k pot for the acoustic preamp out of personal preference. I wired it with 2 push pull pots and a dpdt switch, so that I could select the pickups normally, and only one pickup would be receiving power from the battery at a time. Pulling up the volume engaged a gain boost. Pulling the tone activated the piezos, as well a 475k resistor in series with the pot itself. It messed with the taper a bit, but it worked and sounds dead on and gives a value of 500k. Not sure if that will help you. You could also use a 250/500 k pot with a resistor wired In parallel to lower the resistance on the magnetic side of the blend pot.
Thanks, Nick
That info could definitely come in handy for myself or for others who may want to build one of these.
Glad I could help. I’m not exactly sure how blend pots work, but I have a good idea. If you have a 250k pot, you could leave the wiring for the piezo signal the same, but connect the magnetic lead signal to a 225k resistor and the other end of the resistor to where the magnetic lead wire was on the pot before. If you have a 25k pot, you could leave the magnetic signal alone, and wire one end of a resistor to where the ground wire on the piezo signal is, and then the other end of the resistor to where the piezo signal wire is. Keep the ground and signal wires where they are. To find what value resistor you’d need for the second option, use the formula (R1xR2)/ (R1+R2). R1 is the value of the pot, and just guess and check until you get a resistance of 25k. If the pot works the way a normal pot does, that wiring scheme will work exactly the way you want it to. As long as you don’t use a 500k pot, the taper shouldn’t be affected noticeably.
Wouldn’r diode inline with ground (in the proper direction, of course) also block the voltage from traveling back to ground?
Quite possibly, yes. I’m no electronic genius, but that sounds like it could work.
The Ernie Ball 6165 DOES actually do whay your pedal does. Plug a TRS connector into IN B. In PAN mode, the pedal will inversely adjusts the volume of both input signals and output separate signals on OUT A and OUT B. In other words, the TRS mag/peizo signal from your guitar will be split to OUT A and OUT B with the pedal controlling how much volume each output gets. Full on for both at centre pedal position.
That said, I’m making my own from a Dunlop HighGain volume pedal shell!
Actually, no it does not.
While the Ernie Ball stereo volume/pan pedal does attenuate the A and B signals inversely over the full travel of the pot, the critical difference between the Ernie Ball 6165 and my blend pedal is that on the 6165, in the middle position of the pedal’s travel, both signals are at approximately 50% volume. On my pedal, which uses a proper “blend” pot (not simply a double-ganged potentiometer), each signal is only attenuated in one half of the pot’s motion, with a centre detent where both signals are at 100% volume.
Believe me, i researched this for YEARS before coming to the conclusion that the pedal i was seeking did not exist and designing and building my own.